On The Road Again
To my family, it must seem that I am on vacation all the time. Since I retired, and especially since I moved to southern California, I have made many road trips and enjoyed a couple of spectacular cruises. Of course my flight north during the LA fires to a series of Airbnb’s and the resulting horrific circumstances for so many of my neighbors, was not exactly a relaxing walk in the park. My sadness and anxiety for the well-being of those affected by the fires hasn’t let up after all these months, and it’s only been made worse by the political and social upheaval that has followed the fires. I documented that malaise in my last post.
My most recent foray into vacationland, however, was truly refreshing and enjoyable. The break from the 24-hour news cycle allowed me to develop a fresh perspective and a desire to move forward with a more optimistic point of view. I highly recommend visiting another country during these fraught American times.
Online search engine Duck Duck Go defines vacation as “a period of time devoted to pleasure, rest, or relaxation, especially one with pay granted to an employee.” Well, this vacation fits the first part of the definition, if not the second part. In fact, not only did I not have my pay granted by an employer, I splurged my travel budget for this year and probably next year as well.
But it was worth it.
Manchester, Here I Come
I flew into Manchester Airport from LAX, a very long flight broken by a few hours in Atlanta. Arriving in the early morning, after going through Customs and Passport Control (streamlined by facial recognition) I walked for ten minutes to the Manchester Airport train station. I’d pre-booked a first class seat, which I’ve never done before, but it was worth the money. My comfortable seat faced a table, and came with excellent wifi. Also free coffee. Getting on the train with my suitcase and heavy back pack was a challenge (“mind the gap!”) but a helpful person gave me a well-timed push. I stored my luggage on the shelves provided and settled in for a two hour journey.
I was a bit wobbly when I got off the train in Leeds, but then I remembered the Pasty Shop at the entrance to the platforms. There I purchased a Cornish Pasty as big as a dinner plate and made my way to the platform where I expected the local train to appear. Unfortunately, the train came into a different platform that day, which I would have known if I’d been watching the arrivals and departures board instead of eating my pasty, but there was another train in half an hour and then I was on my way to visit my friend Susan.
Home Town Girl
I was now in Bradford, Yorkshire, where I was born. After two years of unfunded proposals, Bradford was (yay!) awarded the designation of City of Culture for 2025. the city is
Three days later Susan was speeding along local roads to historic Darrington, a village in West Yorkshire, near Pontefract. Our mutual friend Avril lives there, and she would host me for the next three days. I met Susan and Avril 35 years ago at Bradford College, where, like me, they taught future teachers of young children. Our long friendship resulted in me being invited on a 5-day ramble in County Durham, meeting Avril and her husband in Las Vegas for a visit to Death Valley and a memorable production of Mama Mia, and Susan and I traversing half the length of California with three of her children. We also developed a student exchange program between our two colleges. That day in Darrington we spent hours reminiscing and catching up on the events of our lives.
In honor of my long friendship with these two women, as well as with the lead leacher of the Bradford early years program, Sally, sadly now passed, I created a group of characters in my upcoming cozy mystery called the Beesley Puzzlers, and named each of them for my friends.
A Blue Plaque – and a Very Large Park
Susan stayed for lunch and a village ceremony bestowing on Avril’s house a coveted Blue Plaque. (“The blue plaque scheme, established in 1866, commemorates historic and notable people, events, or buildings by installing permanent signs at relevant locations.”) Then Susan drove back to Bradford, and Avril and I embarked on a few very full days of more walks, talks, and meals. And more reminiscing and catching up.
Avril, her daughter, and I spent a wonderful day walking around the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, then returned home to a several course meal Avril had somehow managed to prepare for her hiking buddies and spouses in spite of our full day. It was wonderful to see those ladies again and reminisce about our walking vacation so many years ago. A couple of local walks and evenings in local pubs with Avril and her husband, then, in no time at all, I was sitting in a limousine heading for Thame, a village in Oxfordshire, and the last leg of my English journey.
While I was in Thame (pronounced “tame”) I stayed in an historic inn called The Spread Eagle. For three days my long-time bachelor friend Robert (we’ve known one another over fifty years) proudly squired me around his village, which has been used by the British drama, Midsomer Murders, to depict the fictional town of Causton.
We explored Thame Museum, walked along several well-groomed Town Trails, and ate our meals in ancient pubs. Finally Robert helped me into yet another limousine (I was feeling a bit like a movie star by now) which would take me to Southampton and the Queen Mary 2 for a very special Atlantic crossing.
That’s all for today. Watch for Part Two: What is the QM2 and Why Was I On Board?
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Marlene Anne Bumgarner writes primarily about food, family, and traditions. Her 2020 memoir, Back to the Land in Silicon Valley, is about raising children, animals, and vegetables on a rural plot of land in the 1970s. Organic Cooking for (not-so-organic) Families will be out soon, and she’s working on an update to The Book of Whole Grains while also crafting a cozy mystery, Death on a Sunny Afternoon – a Harriet Palmer Mystery.
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Hi Marlene,
Read your article on-line. Sounds like a wonderful trip. I especially loved the reference to the Midsommer Murders – one of my favorite shows. I noticed that you described one of your friends as “lead leacher.” Not sure if that was a typo or something British, so I thought I’d ask.
Great question, and I suspect others may find that term confusing also. Lead teacher is like a department chair in a college department, in this case Early Years; The UK term Head teacher refers to what we call a Principal in an elementary or secondary school.
Hello Marlene,
Loved reading about your adventures! When we visited Penny Blair several years ago in her home in the Devon area, while touring around, we were on a quest to find a good “Pasty Shop”….we had some, but Penny thought they were just OK!
Oh, lovely Penny! I’m so glad you were able to visit her, and that she is as fond of pasties as I am. I highly recommend those sold on the Leeds railway platform!
Dear Marlene,
Your trip sounds absolutely lovely! However, as you surely noticed, the England of your youth is no more. The “fraught times” are in no way uniquely American. A generation of liberal policies and open borders are taking their toll, and I say this as a Swede with family in several EU countries and thus frequent travels all over the continent.
I’m bringing it up not in order to stir up political discord in your blog, but to prevent envy among those of your American readers who think that Europe is an intact paradise – you have good reasons for much of your doom and gloom with regard to the polarization and mental dis-ease in American society, but the “social and political upheaval” is happening here, too. Your distress is on par with that of countless Europeans in both political spectrums.
That being said – travel remains the best disconnect from an often overwhelming daily reality and the ideal therapy for distraught souls. I’m glad you were here, Marlene!
All the best, Maggie
Maggie – Thank you for your thoughts. Yes, Bradford has had its travails. The 80s were a tough time for the entire North of England, not just Bradford, which is a designated City of Sanctuary with much work going on to integrate (not assimilate: an important distinction) a diverse population. This is not reported in the media, but it is working. Part of the success of the City of Culture is that it highlights and celebrates community and communities on the ground. I look to the next generation to heal some of the wounds of their parents’ and grandparents’ generations.
It was great having you Marlene. Yorkshire will always welcome you. I can’t wait to read the next bulletin about the writing cruise.
And back at you, Avril. It was wonderful to see you again.
So much enjoyed traveling vicariously with you. Thanks so much for taking us all along.